Restaurante Joselito Huerta, Sanlúcar
José opened a bar here on the sandy shores of the Guadalquivir estuary 55 years ago, serving sherry to fishermen at the end of a long morning. Inevitably, it wasn’t long before he hit on the bright idea of cooking their catch, too. The menu is basically a list of things caught in the sea, fried and served with a slice of lemon. The clientele is local and loyal. Weather permitting, tables and umbrellas are set up at the water’s edge, offering a view of boats, and the dunes and bird haven that is Doñana national park. Confused by choice? Go for the selection of fried fish, the surtido, in small, medium, or large.Avenida Bajo de Guía 30, +34 956 362 694, joselitohuerta.com
See The Guardian’s guide to Jerez for more of my recommendations!

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