Hotel La Casa del Califa, Vejer
Hope for rain and curl up in an armchair with a book, linger over lunch in the atmospheric restaurant, watch clouds scudding over the pile of white blocks, domes and church towers that make up this spectacular town. Like Vejer itself, the hotel has a long history (it’s made up of eight houses, dating from the 10th to the 17th centuries, with a 1,000-year-old water cistern, stables, courtyards and a grain store), and is aesthetically pleasing and seductively relaxing. But the Califa is the ideal base from which to explore the coast: Sanlúcar is one hour away; Cádiz one and a half hours – both to the north, and Tarifa just 45 minutes away to the south. The boutiques, bars and churches of Vejer itself are about five paces from the door.
Plaza de España 16, +34 956 447730, lacasadelcalifa.com, closed January, doubles from €80
See The Guardian’s guide to Jerez for more of my recommendations!

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